I drive a liberty jeep model car and I've been in and out of my mechanic's shop for 6months now spending more money with little result to show. I'm thinking of just taking it to Ladipo tomorrow cos I'm told there are better mechanics there and I can get whatever part needed to be changed easily. My fear is I don't want to fall prey to another 'shark'. Any contacts there I can be referred to?

Castrole: I drive a liberty jeep model car and I've been in and out of my mechanic's shop for 6months now spending more money with little result to show. I'm thinking of just taking it to Ladipo tomorrow cos I'm told there are better mechanics there and I can get whatever part needed to be changed easily. My fear is I don't want to fall prey to another 'shark'. Any contacts there I can be referred to?

Stop talking to yourself. What is or has been wrong with your car?

Costee:
Stop talking to yourself. What is or has been wrong with your car?

Lol@ talking to myself.
My apologies at my incoherent lamenting, its the way of we females especially when frustrated.
Main issue is, I keep hearing a funny sound from my engine each time I accelerate. The car runs fine and is reasonably silent when in idle mode.the noise only starts when I engage my gear and put the car in motion. My Mechanic initially said it was my crank shaft which was changed, then he said it was the nozzles. It pretty much seems like guess work to me cos the noise subsides for a while each time he works on it and starts again after a short while.

Castrole:

Lol@ talking to myself.
My apologies at my incoherent lamenting, its the way of we females especially when frustrated.
Main issue is, I keep hearing a funny sound from my engine each time I accelerate. The car runs fine and is reasonably silent when in idle mode.the noise only starts when I engage my gear and put the car in motion. My Mechanic initially said it was my crank shaft which was changed, then he said it was the nozzles. It pretty much seems like guess work to me cos the noise subsides for a while each time he works on it and starts again after a short while.

Is your CEL on? What's the noise like? A whine sound, as if engine knock? You hear it when the throttle is depressed, and then goes away? That could be a difficult one. But you could try an octane booster; sometimes it has to the do with poor quality fuel. The gurus in the house most certainly would have a precise explanation, just give a helpful description of how your car feels. Good luck.

Did he really say he changed your crankshaft?!
I don't even know where to start; the crankshaft,it does not bad unless there is no lubrication so it will rub and wear out the bearings, this is when they say you spun a bearing.
Imagine having your fingers around your wrist then twisting your wrist and bearing is like a shim between fingers and wrist.
when there is no proper lubrication, bearing gets worn, piston vibrates, cylinder walls get scratched things get realy bad, hope this is ot the case but everything points there.
Easy solution is anther engine.

Scan car using this method

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Check_diagnostic_code_for_Jeep_Liberty

thanks for the response, appreciate it: decided to further test drive the car today and my experience is as follows:
a) the car vibrates and has a low rumbling sound when on idle mode.
b) once i hit the expressway on top speed, every noise and vibration almost totally stops and it runs just perfect.
c) back on slow speed, there is a a tingling sound almost like the kind of sound you'd get when u have 2 loose metals rubbing against each other....

Castrole: thanks for the response, appreciate it: decided to further test drive the car today and my experience is as follows:
a) the car vibrates and has a low rumbling sound when on idle mode.
b) once i hit the expressway on top speed, every noise and vibration almost totally stops and it runs just perfect.
c) back on slow speed, there is a a tingling sound almost like the kind of sound you'd get when u have 2 loose metals rubbing against each other....

Well if the car vibrates, loose metals are bound to tingle. What is your rpm at idle? If low there will be vibration. Is your CEL on?

That might be a very good news, use the method in the link to get the codes and post it.
You should never fix a car without checking codes if there is no obvious damage

Costee:
Well if the car vibrates, loose metals are bound to tingle. What is your rpm at idle? If low there will be vibration. Is your CEL on?

My RPM at idle is a notch just below 1...

sultaan: That might be a very good news, use the method in the link to get the codes and post it.
You should never fix a car without checking codes if there is no obvious damage

Guess what happened? On my way home,the car just went off in traffic and refused to start. It wasn't the battery cos my deck was working well and all the lights were coming on brightly. It was just rolling but refusing to pick up when I turned the ignition so I had it pushed off the road and it slept on the street overnight basically. I got online this morning to research and Wise move I must say.I'm glad you advised me.
I was asked to turn my ignition thrice after which It diagnosed the error code:

OBD II Code P0118 - which upon further research translated into:

Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input..........
The Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor converts the coolant temperature into a voltage that is high when the engine is cold and low as the engine warms up. Code P0118 indicates a high voltage input from the Coolant Temperature Sensor to the PCM.

Symptoms
Check Engine Light will illuminate
In many cases, no abnormal symptoms may be noticed
In some cases, the engine may be hard starting and/or get poor fuel economy
Common Problems That Trigger the P0118 Code
Defective Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Rusty and/or corroded Engine Coolant
Faulty or corroded Engine Coolant Temperature wiring or connections

Common Misdiagnoses
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is replaced when the real cause is rusty coolant
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is replaced when the real cause is a poor connection or chafed wiring
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is replaced when the real problem is in the Cooling System
...........................
Now I'm feeling like a car genius for a lady.

.
My main worry now is where to get a proper, professsional rewire who'll understand all these diagnostic grammer cos I apparently got myself into this position in the first place by patronising quacks and road side rewire technicians....

Castrole: .
My main worry now is where to get a proper, professsional rewire who'll understand all these diagnostic grammer cos I apparently got myself into this position in the first place by patronising quacks and road side rewire technicians....

Ok then, I guess you need to replace your engine coolant temperature sensor (our local rewires I believe call it temperature switch). Hey! why should your engine coolant be rusty or corroded? Do you use just water? At any rate, it will be advisable to flush your radiator after replacing the sensor.

Castrole: .
My main worry now is where to get a proper, professsional rewire who'll understand all these diagnostic grammer cos I apparently got myself into this position in the first place by patronising quacks and road side rewire technicians....

Take several pics of the engine and post it, we'll show you what to take to your mechanic.

FYI there is no such thing as rewire anymore because the person fixing your car should have all those tools/testers.

Quick question; did you just buy the jeep, or did someone work on it recently before that started?
What was wrong before you took it to your mechanic?

What year and engine size is it 4/6cyl?

Ask if your mechanic removed the thermostat, I asked for pics to see if your cts is connected