This post is being made on behalf of a fellow Nler(TRYGO) whos moniker got banned for posting it.



In some climes, or circumstances, it would be best to replaced an engine, that has finally gone caput, on a highway, where the risks to you, and your vehicle, isn't guaranteed.

Take for instance, you're driving through one of the unsecured roads in the country, and suddenly, your vehicle's engine suddenly breaks down due to engine mechanical problems (seizures, for example).

Assuming, the costs of getting the engine repaired on a particular section of the road, is at most the cheapest options available to get that car back on the road. But because of the risks(bandits, or terrorists) to your life and that of the mechanic, you'd preferred to spend that extra cash purchasing another engine and installing it immediately(though might be expensive).

Today, we'd be delving into the world of engine rebuilds, and most especially, to negate the common myths car owners usually have about such rebuilds, never lasting for awhile (sustainable).

The vehicle in question is a 4Runner V6, with the engine costs running close to a million naira.

                     
                        CASE STUDY

VEHICLE: 4RUNNER 2004, TRD
ENGINE TYPE: 1GR-FE
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM TYPE: AUTOMATIC

CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS: 
1. Excessive engine consumption
4L/week

2. Frequent spark plugs replacements on cylinders #5&6

3. Severe engine misfires while idling

4. Noises at the valve train also when idling

5. Engine loss of power, and visible smoke from the tailpipe.

6. Customer complained of a P0016 code

7. Complained about engine oil dropping down to the sump immediately, at every cold rest.

OUR DIAGNOSIS/DISCOVERIES
1. Simulated all of the customers complaints

2. Retrieved stored codes, P0305 and P0306, which confirmed those cylinders were misfiring badly.
Those spark plugs were removed and was seen to have engine fouling on them, while other spark plugs were OK (firing perfectly).

3. Checked all necessary components that could cause oil shortages or burnings (valve cover gaskets, crankshaft oil seal, flywheel seal and the timing cover for signs of leaks.
There were no leaks.

This led us to understand that the oil shortages was something internal, and not external, as the case maybe!

4. A vacuum hose connected to the intake manifold through the fuel voltage regulator was broken.

THE FIX!
1. Got the engine removed, after all electrical accessory connections/connectors were removed.

2. Got the engine properly timed to TDC, and had the timing components marks on the dual DOHC marked using white marker.
This helps to avoid ambiguities, during installations, etc.

3. Here's the tricky part of the job.
You got to be able to identity exactly on which cylinder banks, cylinders #1 is located.
Being able to decipher that, would help you know which cylinder numbers what piston goes to.

4. Disassembled the entire engine, to ascertained the level of damages that has being done to the internal parts.

Results of disassembled engine parts as follows:

*Piston rings on both cylinder numbers 5&6 had excessive clearances, more than allowable limits.
All the compression and oil rings were clearly out of tolerances.

The pistons on those cylinders were already slapping against the cylinder walls, hence one of the noises from the car.

* Connecting rod bearings had signs of scouring on them(that's like some scratches to say).

* All three timing chains were slack(source of another noises).

* One of the intake/exhaust camshafts auto tensioners, had a broken part.

* The oil pump strainer was half way blocked.
This would cause the engine, especially the valve train area, to be starved of oil supply.

* A lot of metal broken parts were seen in the oil sump or bottom plate.

5. All parts on the car was replaced with genuine new parts.

* All three timing chains

* All valve cover gaskets

* Piston rings, and connecting rod/crankshaft journal bearings

* Crankshaft oil seal, flywheel seal

* Oil pump rotors

6. Ensure the timing marks aligned properly with all timing chain paint marls/links.
Allowing them all to aligned with the timing chain paint marks, helps you to ensured the timing of the engine is correct.

7. Installed the engine in the car, connect everything back in reverse of removal from onset.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with rebuilding engines.

I think people get scared venturing into that line of job, because of the assumptions that fake engine rebuild kits are available everywhere.
Another reasons could be the skill set of the mechanic embarking on the job.

PS: 
Do not try to managed any parts, especially engine related, during an overhaul.

Managing parts, for such a delicate "surgical operation", might in the future come to hunt you.

Do not use expensive engine oils(synthetic) for your bedding in/sitting of the piston rings.
That's waste of resources.

For my rebuilds, I used conventional engine oils to help sit then piston rings properly, and all the test drives I or the owner would be doing for the next 1000km before returning to your oil of choice (might be synthetic).

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If you're stuck right now thinking if you should purchase an engine, or rebuild what you got, why not give us a call today?

Oh really! but I (car owner) have heard that rebuilds don't last.
Ok here's the deal:
We'd give you a 1YEAR GUARANTEE ON OUR REBUILDS.

Our engine rebuilds isn't limited to Toyota brands alone. 
We also rebuild Nissans, Honda, etc

We've rebuilt corollas(2002, 2010:2zr),civic 2005, Honda accords evil spirit 2008, 4 and 6 cylinders, Honda pilot 2010; all manner of camry vehicles (big daddy, muzzle, SE, etc); Highlander 2006, Rx400h, Priuses(1Nz). All of these vehicles are still in service.

The most advantage of engine rebuilds is that you're certain about what parts is in the car, unlike a used engine, its a 50/50 thing. It might work for you without issues first. But what about if it has issues? What do you do?

Take it back to seller, and add

The engine being completely removed

Overview of the transmission system after engine removal

Engine removed, and getting ready to get it timed before disassembly

Bank 1 on the right hand bank exposing the camshaft intake/exhaust gears and camshafts.

We're were trying to aligned the camshaft gears on all of the banks, according to the timing mark links on the timing chains.

Used a white marker to mark off the points at TDC after turning the crankshaft some revolutions.
Care must be taken to ensure that the points on the timing chain cover, aligns with that one the pulley(notch).

The crankshaft sprocket notch timing mark, has to aligned with the line on the block.

This shows the level of sludge in the engine, and how the strainer was blocked.
That has to be totally washed off

Toyota recommends replacing the water pump, when there's coolant leaks at the weep holes.
Don't reused such water pumps, if you noticed such colourations by the side.

Old and new water pump placed side by side

Piston rings have being sized into the engine bores

Top cylinder gaskets installed; awaiting top cylinders for mounting on.

The oil pump new rotor was placed along side the old one.
The old one had to be replaced, considering the mileage on the car(about 257,000miles).
Always the timing marks on either sides of the rotor gears are aligned properly.

Installed the new oil pump rotor. You must lubricate the component before fixing, in order to get it primed

Had to replaced the timing chain secondary chains, and auto tensioners. The primary chain was also replaced.

The installed chains and auto tensioners

Great job, very educative.

@ Trygo, sorry to derail but I need your opinion. A close friend of mine wants to change his current car and there are four choices so far ie 2005 Camry, 2008 Camry, 2007 Honda Accord & 2008/10 Honda Accord though his main choice is the Camry muscle but I have reservations about it because of the inferior quality of the dashboard and I’ve heard stories about its engines. He’s targeting Nigerian used of any of these vehicles V6 or I4. Thanks once again

valarinz:
This post is being made on behalf of a fellow Nler(TRYGO) whos moniker got banned for posting it.



In some climes, or circumstances, it would be best to replaced an engine, that has finally gone caput, on a highway, where the risks to you, and your vehicle, isn't guaranteed.

Take for instance, you're driving through one of the unsecured roads in the country, and suddenly, your vehicle's engine suddenly breaks down due to engine mechanical problems (seizures, for example).

Assuming, the costs of getting the engine repaired on a particular section of the road, is at most the cheapest options available to get that car back on the road. But because of the risks(bandits, or terrorists) to your life and that of the mechanic, you'd preferred to spend that extra cash purchasing another engine and installing it immediately(though might be expensive).

Today, we'd be delving into the world of engine rebuilds, and most especially, to negate the common myths car owners usually have about such rebuilds, never lasting for awhile (sustainable).

The vehicle in question is a 4Runner V6, with the engine costs running close to a million naira.

                     
                        CASE STUDY

VEHICLE: 4RUNNER 2004, TRD
ENGINE TYPE: 1GR-FE
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM TYPE: AUTOMATIC

CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS: 
1. Excessive engine consumption
4L/week

2. Frequent spark plugs replacements on cylinders #5&6

3. Severe engine misfires while idling

4. Noises at the valve train also when idling

5. Engine loss of power, and visible smoke from the tailpipe.

6. Customer complained of a P0016 code

7. Complained about engine oil dropping down to the sump immediately, at every cold rest.

OUR DIAGNOSIS/DISCOVERIES
1. Simulated all of the customers complaints

2. Retrieved stored codes, P0305 and P0306, which confirmed those cylinders were misfiring badly.
Those spark plugs were removed and was seen to have engine fouling on them, while other spark plugs were OK (firing perfectly).

3. Checked all necessary components that could cause oil shortages or burnings (valve cover gaskets, crankshaft oil seal, flywheel seal and the timing cover for signs of leaks.
There were no leaks.

This led us to understand that the oil shortages was something internal, and not external, as the case maybe!

4. A vacuum hose connected to the intake manifold through the fuel voltage regulator was broken.

THE FIX!
1. Got the engine removed, after all electrical accessory connections/connectors were removed.

2. Got the engine properly timed to TDC, and had the timing components marks on the dual DOHC marked using white marker.
This helps to avoid ambiguities, during installations, etc.

3. Here's the tricky part of the job.
You got to be able to identity exactly on which cylinder banks, cylinders #1 is located.
Being able to decipher that, would help you know which cylinder numbers what piston goes to.

4. Disassembled the entire engine, to ascertained the level of damages that has being done to the internal parts.

Results of disassembled engine parts as follows:

*Piston rings on both cylinder numbers 5&6 had excessive clearances, more than allowable limits.
All the compression and oil rings were clearly out of tolerances.

The pistons on those cylinders were already slapping against the cylinder walls, hence one of the noises from the car.

* Connecting rod bearings had signs of scouring on them(that's like some scratches to say).

* All three timing chains were slack(source of another noises).

* One of the intake/exhaust camshafts auto tensioners, had a broken part.

* The oil pump strainer was half way blocked.
This would cause the engine, especially the valve train area, to be starved of oil supply.

* A lot of metal broken parts were seen in the oil sump or bottom plate.

5. All parts on the car was replaced with genuine new parts.

* All three timing chains

* All valve cover gaskets

* Piston rings, and connecting rod/crankshaft journal bearings

* Crankshaft oil seal, flywheel seal

* Oil pump rotors

he was banned for posting it in collaboration with another jealous mechanic

RZArecta2:
@ Trygo, sorry to derail but I need your opinion. A close friend of mine wants to change his current car and there are four choices so far ie 2005 Camry, 2008 Camry, 2007 Honda Accord & 2008/10 Honda Accord though his main choice is the Camry muscle but I have reservations about it because of the inferior quality of the dashboard and I’ve heard stories about its engines. He’s targeting Nigerian used of any of these vehicles V6 or I4. Thanks once again

better don't use your money and buy problem

valarinz:
This post is being made on behalf of a fellow Nler(TRYGO) whos moniker got banned for posting it.



In some climes, or circumstances, it would be best to replaced an engine, that has finally gone caput, on a highway, where the risks to you, and your vehicle, isn't guaranteed.

Take for instance, you're driving through one of the unsecured roads in the country, and suddenly, your vehicle's engine suddenly breaks down due to engine mechanical problems (seizures, for example).

Assuming, the costs of getting the engine repaired on a particular section of the road, is at most the cheapest options available to get that car back on the road. But because of the risks(bandits, or terrorists) to your life and that of the mechanic, you'd preferred to spend that extra cash purchasing another engine and installing it immediately(though might be expensive).

Today, we'd be delving into the world of engine rebuilds, and most especially, to negate the common myths car owners usually have about such rebuilds, never lasting for awhile (sustainable).

The vehicle in question is a 4Runner V6, with the engine costs running close to a million naira.

                     
                        CASE STUDY

VEHICLE: 4RUNNER 2004, TRD
ENGINE TYPE: 1GR-FE
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM TYPE: AUTOMATIC

CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS: 
1. Excessive engine consumption
4L/week

2. Frequent spark plugs replacements on cylinders #5&6

3. Severe engine misfires while idling

4. Noises at the valve train also when idling

5. Engine loss of power, and visible smoke from the tailpipe.

6. Customer complained of a P0016 code

7. Complained about engine oil dropping down to the sump immediately, at every cold rest.

OUR DIAGNOSIS/DISCOVERIES
1. Simulated all of the customers complaints

2. Retrieved stored codes, P0305 and P0306, which confirmed those cylinders were misfiring badly.
Those spark plugs were removed and was seen to have engine fouling on them, while other spark plugs were OK (firing perfectly).

3. Checked all necessary components that could cause oil shortages or burnings (valve cover gaskets, crankshaft oil seal, flywheel seal and the timing cover for signs of leaks.
There were no leaks.

This led us to understand that the oil shortages was something internal, and not external, as the case maybe!

4. A vacuum hose connected to the intake manifold through the fuel voltage regulator was broken.

THE FIX!
1. Got the engine removed, after all electrical accessory connections/connectors were removed.

2. Got the engine properly timed to TDC, and had the timing components marks on the dual DOHC marked using white marker.
This helps to avoid ambiguities, during installations, etc.

3. Here's the tricky part of the job.
You got to be able to identity exactly on which cylinder banks, cylinders #1 is located.
Being able to decipher that, would help you know which cylinder numbers what piston goes to.

4. Disassembled the entire engine, to ascertained the level of damages that has being done to the internal parts.

Results of disassembled engine parts as follows:

*Piston rings on both cylinder numbers 5&6 had excessive clearances, more than allowable limits.
All the compression and oil rings were clearly out of tolerances.

The pistons on those cylinders were already slapping against the cylinder walls, hence one of the noises from the car.

* Connecting rod bearings had signs of scouring on them(that's like some scratches to say).

* All three timing chains were slack(source of another noises).

* One of the intake/exhaust camshafts auto tensioners, had a broken part.

* The oil pump strainer was half way blocked.
This would cause the engine, especially the valve train area, to be starved of oil supply.

* A lot of metal broken parts were seen in the oil sump or bottom plate.

5. All parts on the car was replaced with genuine new parts.

* All three timing chains

* All valve cover gaskets

* Piston rings, and connecting rod/crankshaft journal bearings

* Crankshaft oil seal, flywheel seal

* Oil pump rotors

When this occurs then it is either the piston is worn down or the cylinder wall of affected cylinder has "Ovalized"

changing piston rings WILL NOT solve this issue.

Did you use a bore dial to check ovality of cylinder walls? was there any scratch present on wall lining? was affected piston replaced?

@Inception. No scouring on cylinder walls.
pistons are not oversized or worn out.
Piston rings only were, including the connecting rod bearings were "dangling". No signs of pittings on the replaced parts, to signify any overheating emanating from loss of oil on the metal surfaces.

@Flottintin. Two bullets Jere you're pointing at me:
1. ...prone to overheating?

2. ...just replaced top cylinder?


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1. has the engine overheated before, to the state that it stalled, and you've to wait some minutes before adding water or coolants, as the case may be?
Is the engine consuming engine so badly?


2. If the vehicle has only overheated leading to a desire to have the top gaskets replaced, then go ahead and replaced the gaskets once and for all.


Providing answers to #1 above would go along way to helped me answer your questions.

Local man is impressed with Valarinz and Trygo... Please lemme support you guys with some light change for full synthetic oil

Great job @valarinz for reposting this topic. It shows we still have a few good men on this forum. I salute u.

@Trygo, this a great adventure. It will challenge those who think its impossible to rebuild engines & encourage them to take a leap towards this route. Your one year warranty on such rebuilds will further allay fears & take care of after sales support.

TRYGO:
@Inception. No scouring on cylinder walls.
pistons are not oversized or worn out.
Piston rings only were, including the connecting rod bearings were "dangling". No signs of pittings on the replaced parts, to signify any overheating emanating from loss of oil on the metal surfaces.

Bossman I have an engine for replacement into a Ford focus 2003. Let me know if you can do the job?

You guys left out the most important part. How much was this compared to buying a new or toks engine and replacing the engine.

You may give us estimates and not exact price.