Kampack:
Scan the car.

However, that engine block is likely cracked due to the initial overheating. Get ready for a new engine - just speculating though.

breezy007:
Good day Car Gurus, I have gone through so much trying to solve a particular problem on a Kia Cerato 2012. 1.6litre, I think from 09-12 use the same engines.

I noticed the oil light some months back flickering after about 4 hours journey, after which I parked the car to cool down and had it checked mechanic said top gasket was burnt Paid for a gasket replacement and that was it after, Prior to that, noticed the thermostat wasn't there, as usual the mechanic was tryung to blame it, fan still works with the sensor and comes on when I use the ac, akso I use the car with ac 90% of the time.

I have not had need to drive the car longer than 1 hour but recently I noticed the light came back, especially if I run the car with ac and drive for about 30 minutes, slow down or come to a complete stop it appears then goes off once I accelerate.
I met a mechanic who cleaned the bottom plate and claimed it would stop. It didn't.
I met a Kia specialist who said it would be the the oil pump. I paid for a new oil pump installation and total engine servicing. After a week I noticed it again. He said to ignore the light. As he is sure oil was pumping and there was sufficient oil. Now I felt very uneasy each time I see this light but then after ignoring the oil light for about 30minutes driving around, temperature light appeared and clearly there was overheat, met another mechanic who dropped the top although the gasket wasn't really burnt, grinded it and changed it, water pump checked infact I allowed the electrician connect the fan direct for about a week nothing changed, I've been told to buy a double cell radiator, obviously it's all guess work. U use pure coolant finally the mechanic dropped to engine to check the bearings only to discover some bearings had haves off or worn out, replaced the bearings coupled the engine and with joy feeling our Kong term struggle was gone after running the engine for 2 hours. Oil light is back on. So clearly something is making the engine lose compression. Thus particular mechanic is really good and detailed, he is equally frustrated as he is sure my engine block, piston, top, fan gearbox, oils are all in order.

breezy007:
Lol. Well it's been butchered for same reason oil light keeps flickering when car is hot.

Well the sensor was switched with another same thing happened.

breezy007:
Lol. Well it's been butchered for same reason oil light keeps flickering when car is hot.

Well the sensor was switched with another same thing happened.

sultaan:
If you have changed the oil and filter, what is the condition of the oil strainer.

Sometimes you may have to install oil pressure gauge to confirm of you are actually losing oil pressure or you oil pressure gauge is on the fritz

9icetoo:
OP, sincerely answer the following questions.
1. What grade and make of oil have you been using to service this car?
2. Do you buy this oil yourself and supervise the servicing?
3. After how many kilometers or miles do you service the car?
4. Has your fan been running direct and for how long?
5. When was the thermostat removed?
6. Did you see the sludge removed by the mechanic? Was it plenty? Did it fill a quarter of the oil pan?
7. Did the mechanic measure the crankshaft before buying the bearings for the crankshaft?

breezy007:


1. Total Qwartz 5000

[/quote][quote author=breezy007 post=95804805]

1. Total Qwartz 5000
2. Yes. Both oil and filter.
3. I change oil before 2,000 every 2 months if used daily. Most times car stays parked for weeks when am not around.
4. That was connected for just 5 days to rule out the option of fan being the problem.
5. To be sincere I noticed it had been removed at the first over heat.
6. Funny enough there was no sludge at all, like I said all engine components still look good.
7. We took the crankshaft to buy the bearings, also the dealer made sure he gave us the best as I've known him for years, then took the crank shaft to where they they specialize on crankshafts to make sure it was fine and they said it was.

breezy007:
Good day Car Gurus, I have gone through so much trying to solve a particular problem on a Kia Cerato 2012. 1.6litre, I think from 09-12 use the same engines.

I noticed the oil light some months back flickering after about 4 hours journey, after which I parked the car to cool down and had it checked mechanic said top gasket was burnt Paid for a gasket replacement and that was it after, Prior to that, noticed the thermostat wasn't there, as usual the mechanic was tryung to blame it, fan still works with the sensor and comes on when I use the ac, akso I use the car with ac 90% of the time.

I have not had need to drive the car longer than 1 hour but recently I noticed the light came back, especially if I run the car with ac and drive for about 30 minutes, slow down or come to a complete stop it appears then goes off once I accelerate.
I met a mechanic who cleaned the bottom plate and claimed it would stop. It didn't.
I met a Kia specialist who said it would be the the oil pump. I paid for a new oil pump installation and total engine servicing. After a week I noticed it again. He said to ignore the light. As he is sure oil was pumping and there was sufficient oil. Now I felt very uneasy each time I see this light but then after ignoring the oil light for about 30minutes driving around, temperature light appeared and clearly there was overheat, met another mechanic who dropped the top although the gasket wasn't really burnt, grinded it and changed it, water pump checked infact I allowed the electrician connect the fan direct for about a week nothing changed, I've been told to buy a double cell radiator, obviously it's all guess work. U use pure coolant finally the mechanic dropped to engine to check the bearings only to discover some bearings had haves off or worn out, replaced the bearings coupled the engine and with joy feeling our Kong term struggle was gone after running the engine for 2 hours. Oil light is back on. So clearly something is making the engine lose compression. Thus particular mechanic is really good and detailed, he is equally frustrated as he is sure my engine block, piston, top, fan gearbox, oils are all in order.

breezy007:
The engine has had 90,000km on the car odometer. Car was bought brand new, other than kick starter, battery, normal maintenance, this has been a problem, I have seen beat up knocked engines rebuilt and works fine for years but this is just unbearable... Also it's an aluminum block Cerato 1.6 litre engine, it's very expensive and buying a new one isn't possible soon and I believe this engine can still work, please Gazzuzz,. Ikenna and other experts in this car talk section help me out, I see people come here and get solutions...

Inception:
Oga, your crankshaft main bearings are most likely the culprit. Oil pump provides flow, main bearings clearances as per design spec provides pressure.

Bearings are not to be changed using trial and error.

That engine needs to be torn down again, crankshaft and main block journals inspected for wear, measured to ensure it confirms to spec, and bearing should be purchased using the CORRECT part number as per measurement obtained.

It is quite unfortunate that most Hyundai / kia built after 2009 is piece of shi.t.

Sorry for the predicament.

9icetoo:

Just like Gazzuzz and inception here has said, do this.
Stay away from 20w50 after this. My 1.6l cerrato engine has 170k kms. Use the recommended oil going forward.

GAZZUZZ:


unless he changes piston rings . Currently might have protective sludge keeping the oil burn away.

GAZZUZZ:


unless he changes piston rings . Currently might have protective sludge keeping the oil burn away.

Inception:
Oga, your crankshaft main bearings are most likely the culprit. Oil pump provides flow, main bearings clearances as per design spec provides pressure.

Bearings are not to be changed using trial and error.

That engine needs to be torn down again, crankshaft and main block journals inspected for wear, measured to ensure it confirms to spec, and bearing should be purchased using the CORRECT part number as per measurement obtained.

It is quite unfortunate that most Hyundai / kia built after 2009 is piece of shi.t.

Sorry for the predicament.

GAZZUZZ:


unless he changes piston rings . Currently might have protective sludge keeping the oil burn away.

Inception:


On point. Only a complete rebuild can assure use of 5w-20/30 without issues. If not I would still suggest he continues with 20w-50.

breezy007:


After the rebuild and test run i would have to make the right decision on what oil to run the engine with as i have seen lots of kia hyundai engines from 1.4 1.6 to the 2.2 litre engines run 20w-50 oil either mobile or total.

9icetoo:

Stay away from 20w50. U no go hear now. I have 170k on the cerrato. E still dey drop water. It has never seen 20w50.
Stay away from that oil. Thank you.

Ochiske:
Bikefe is that you?

9icetoo:

Stay away from 20w50. U no go hear now. I have 170k on the cerrato. E still dey drop water. It has never seen 20w50.
Stay away from that oil. Thank you.

IkpuNnegiEwu44:


My Camry 2004 has been serviced with Total Quartz 5000 20w50 and the odometer is over 200k miles. The engine has never been opened and the exhaust drops water.

What matters is frequency of servicing. I don't joke with my car servicing. Atimes I do it in month interval if I traveled with the car much.