thomasjohn: please where can i get very quality car wax and sealant in Lagos.

thank you

thomasjohn: thanks for all the advise, dnt know much about all this wax,sealant ish, i just came across something called "detailing" dat gives cars extra shine and protects the paint.
pls tell me more about sealants, their pros and cons and pls where i can get one in lag.

thanks

Trac:

Basically, what it does is to add an thin enamel layer (polymers) to your already finished paint film. What you see on your car as paint work actually isn't paint but paint-film. This is plastic-bonded. The colour (that is your vehicle's colour) is oil and it can evaporate to some degree leaving it to harden (then break) or oxidise. As of 2007, automotive in paint-coat technology was the use of paint-film. A few years later, I came across a different technology in the bonding of the Camaro. It had something to do with magnets or so (don't quote me on this). This is what differentiates a car when the paint finish is being tested with a tool when you trade-in your car. What the sealants do is to act as protection against the sun and harsh conditions (for instance - high speed driving under hot weather). The hard enamel (acrylic or silicone) takes the brunt instead of actual finish. When you buy a car from the dealership, it is polished and sealed from the production plant. Polish and coating is to be done every year and this detail goes as high as $300+. This is also stated in your owner's manual. If your original vehicle finish is dull, polishing and coating it will not restore its original integrity. You'll have to clay the exterior using a clay compound. This is abrasive but you need a clay compound of very fine "grits" to clay-blast the dull surface off. It's like sand-papering but the purpose is to exfoliate the vehicle's finish in other to favour the brighter and desired colour. After this procedure, polish can be added. Most sealants have polish integrated in them. Apply your sealant and buff.

A point of caution: you do not need to use a clay compound. As a matter of fact, I don't recommend it.
Another point of caution: I will strongly (and I mean strongly) recommend an electric buffer (rotary buffer). It is a very stressful job by hand and may appear perfect but a few days later, about two or three percent imperfections may surface. A few rainfalls and you might loose encouragement. You might stop halfway into the project and it isn't good.

I will recommend a few brands to you.

If you own a Mercedes Benz, the Menzerno Nano is best. This is what MB uses.
Zymol - This is good but might not last 52 washes. You might have to reapply the formulation a few months later.
Zaino - If you find this, I highly recommend this.
3M Products
NuFinish Car Polish - the price is cheap (about $9+) on this, the shine/reflection is on the upper scale. I can't tell you why it is cheap but it is very good. I believe this is a standalone.

With the rotary buffer, you can do it yourself.

Trac:


Basically, what it does is to add an thin enamel layer (polymers) to your already finished paint film. What you see on your car as paint work actually isn't paint but paint-film. This is plastic-bonded. The colour (that is your vehicle's colour) is oil and it can evaporate to some degree leaving it to harden (then break) or oxidise. As of 2007, automotive in paint-coat technology was the use of paint-film. A few years later, I came across a different technology in the bonding of the Camaro. It had something to do with magnets or so (don't quote me on this). This is what differentiates a car when the paint finish is being tested with a tool when you trade-in your car. What the sealants do is to act as protection against the sun and harsh conditions (for instance - high speed driving under hot weather). The hard enamel (acrylic or silicone) takes the brunt instead of actual finish. When you buy a car from the dealership, it is polished and sealed from the production plant. Polish and coating is to be done every year and this detail goes as high as $300+. This is also stated in your owner's manual. If your original vehicle finish is dull, polishing and coating it will not restore its original integrity. You'll have to clay the exterior using a clay compound. This is abrasive but you need a clay compound of very fine "grits" to clay-blast the dull surface off. It's like sand-papering but the purpose is to exfoliate the vehicle's finish in other to favour the brighter and desired colour. After this procedure, polish can be added. Most sealants have polish integrated in them. Apply your sealant and buff.

A point of caution: you do not need to use a clay compound. As a matter of fact, I don't recommend it.
Another point of caution: I will strongly (and I mean strongly) recommend an electric buffer (rotary buffer). It is a very stressful job by hand and may appear perfect but a few days later, about two or three percent imperfections may surface. A few rainfalls and you might loose encouragement. You might stop halfway into the project and it isn't good.

I will recommend a few brands to you.

If you own a Mercedes Benz, the Menzerno Nano is best. This is what MB uses.
Zymol - This is good but might not last 52 washes. You might have to reapply the formulation a few months later.
Zaino - If you find this, I highly recommend this.
3M Products
NuFinish Car Polish - the price is cheap (about $9+) on this, the shine/reflection is on the upper scale. I can't tell you why it is cheap but it is very good. I believe this is a standalone.

With the rotary buffer, you can do it yourself.